Mount Charleston 11,918′ The Hourglass 6/5/2010

After a visit to the beach and some business in Southern California I headed up to Vegas to meet up with my brother. We got some dinner and headed up to the dolomite campground in Lee Canyon. The plan went like this. We were leaving a car at the Mary Jane Falls trailhead and we were going to ascend from Lee Canyon. Head up to the ridge and meet up with the Mt Charleston North Loop trail. Summit and ski Hourglass. Descend with raps down the valley to our waiting shuttle vehicle.

We headed up through  the ski area and hooked up with doogleg. I’m sure there’s a name for it but I don’t know it. Once on the ridge we connected with the trail. The going was pretty easy until we got to the Devils Thumb area. Here we encountered steep sidehilling and eventually put crampons on. The entire way I was a concerned with the temps. It was approaching 80* and I was a bit concerned with the level of melting that we were seeing. Once at the hourglass we opted to climb it to inspect the snow. About 700 vert from the summit we called it due to waist deep post holing. I just couldn’t risk getting my brother slid. I’d never hear the end of it from my parents.

The ski was great and I look forward to going back to get it from the summit. These mountains are really cool. We headed down to the end of the snow and began out hike out. We got to a 40 footer and set up a rap. That was fun. Further down we encountered a waterfall. We couldn’t see the bottom from a couple aspects and realized that we didn’t have enough gear for another safe rap station, with the available anchor points.I think 2 55m ropes would be needed to make this route happen. The painful was reality. Time to add on another 2000′ of vert. We climbed back out to the trail. The bonus however was a really fun 1500 vert of extra skiing down the Dogleg chute we ascended in the morning.

Not too worried about missing this one. Las Vegas had temps up to almost 120* that day. I suspect the mountains topped 80*. I’d turn around again if I had to do it again.

Way to step up Bro. It was a hard day for sure but you handled it like a champ. I really enjoyed seeing you and it was a day I will remember for a long time.

Entering the dogleg gully
Good climbing snow
Such a beautiful range
The trees are pretty cool too
The Hourglass Couloir
I really like this shot Bro
Steep sidehilling Yuck
Looking at the entrance to Hourglass
Heading up
Decent skiing
Checking my sluff
At the choke
Looked like a fun glissade
This was a really fun line
Moving fast
Looking back at the route
The Rappel
Nice form Bro
Such a beautiful place. I'll be back for sure

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